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Milan Fashion Week Crib Sheet: The 7 Most Well-Reviewed Shows According To Everyone Who Matters

Posted on: February 29, 2012

The fashion flock might have already taken flight for Paris, but in case you’re still getting your Guccis and Puccis in a row, this afternoon we check in with your ultimate crib sheet to Milan fashion week’s most well-reviewed collections.

As with our  London  and  NYC roundups, we’ve pored through The New York Times, theInternational Herald Tribune, Style.com, Vogue.com, SHOWstudio.com—and every other broadsheet and blog we can stream in our Google Reader—to bring you just the adjectives and adverbial phrases and other one-liners used to qualify the shows.

Which designers came out on top? In the spirit of the new Milanese minimalism, we’ve pared the list down to seven. Flash back with us now through the best of austerity chic and graphic tailoring.

Photos: Imaxtree

 

Gucci

“What! No more sex in the saddle or rocking through the night? Just love in the afternoon, hair flowing loose, a cuddling velvet cape, a moss green dress, wispy black chiffon shaded with embroidery and the blue green of peacock feathers? Frida Giannini did a volte face at Gucci on Wednesday, from sexy to sensual, making a bold and beautiful start to the Milan winter 2012 season.” —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

“Evoked a darkly poetic opulence—at times nymphlike, but with the fragility counterbalanced by references to a briskly dandy-ish masculinity with a dash of swaggering World War I militaria. It made for an extensive and varied flow of sophisticated clothes, softer and richer in tone, in a show which also encompassed the emerging ideas in fall’s fashion narrative. It made for Giannini’s best collection yet.” —Sarah Mower,Vogue.com

 

 

Prada

“In the late 1990s, Ms. Prada’s ‘ugly beauty’ collections challenged all kinds of assumptions, and her latest batch of clothes, in geometric prints and jacquards, really descends from that period. One difference is that patterns, redolent of old-carpet designs, now have graphic punch. Colors—orange, violet, persimmon—are super-saturated.” —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

“Dazzle us—whoever laid down that particular gauntlet to Miuccia Prada for Autumn/Winter 2012 deserves a pat on the back. Although one suspects the metaphorical challenger was Mrs Prada herself. Because dazzling is certainly the word for the jewel-outlined, richly-coloured and razor-focussed show that she turned out.” —Alex Fury, SHOWstudio.com

 

 

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Etro

“Taking the ethnic out of Etro has been the mission of its designer for a few seasons. But for winter 2012, Veronica Etro succeeded in taking the company’s signature paisley patterns and making their rounded curlicues embrace the female figure.” —Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune

“In a word, the show was a fine fashion moment, a splendid example of refreshing a house’s DNA and a great personal success of Etro’s.” —Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Wire Daily

 

 

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Bottega Veneta

“Fashion people live for the rare occasions when a show is so good it sends an involuntary wave of emotion through their veins. At Bottega Veneta, that kind of unfakeable visceral reaction had spectators sitting forward in their seats as Tomas Maier began to send out women dressed in dark, perfectly tailored coats and suits, walking easily in flat riding boots, with gloves, pearl earrings, and a slash of burgundy lipstick to finish.” —Sarah Mower, Vogue.com

“At Bottega, Tomas Maier showed chic, beautifully balanced coats and suits in dark matte wools with velvet details and covered buttons. You noticed how perfect the look was, and nothing more.” —Cathy Horyn, The New York Times

 

 

Jil Sander

“In a collection as elegant, nuanced, and thoughtful as the designer himself, Raf Simons’s final show for the house of Jil Sander proved an exquisite coda to his remarkable career here. In his design trajectory, this inventive Belgian has reimagined menswear, changing the fashionable male paradigm in the process … then successfully transitioned to womenswear at Jil Sander where, since 2005, he has explored—beautifully, and with ever-increasing assurance—the house codes of subtle understatement and pragmatic minimalism, and layered them with his own interest in midcentury style and contemporary innovation.” —Hamish Bowles,Vogue.com

“Mr. Simons has, for a while, moved into haute territory, and this collection was both impeccably tailored and meltingly soft, suggesting the duality of a 21st-century woman. Whether or not the designer finds a nest in a couture home, or develops women’s wear from his own signature men’s line, his fashion voice is too powerful and too important to still.” —Suzy Menkes,International Herald Tribune

 

Emilio Pucci

“A fab collection that put the focus not only on men’s tailoring but also on a newly covered-up silhouette.” —Nicole Phelps,Style.com

“The Pucci girl will be sad—she seems to have lost her go-to designer for three dozen seven-figure evening gowns every season. For every other woman, Dundas’ Pucci deserves to be a new wardrobe staple.” —Alex Fury, SHOWstudio.com

 

Marni

“The stunning collection she presented Sunday morning proposed the idea of a sort of strict and clean elegance that still was quite womanly. … It made for a clean silhouette that effectively walked the line between minimalism and maximalism.” —Emily Holt, Vogue.com

“Much more straightforward, maybe more restrained than usual. One interpretation: Castiglioni’s collaboration with H&M had allowed her to get a lot of classic Marni out of her system, offered her pause for reflection, and pointed her toward a possible future. Expect more changes.” —Tim Blanks, Style.com

 

 

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Hey all! Welcome to my fashion blog. I am little fashion addict from Vienna and want to share here with u everything I like. Keep in touch because we'll have some fun :).

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